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Achieving equilateral triangles

May 25, 2018

Below is a diagrammatic representation of Harry Boyd’s principles for achieving equilateral triangles on 6 strip rods and to help visualise the geometric shape of an irregular triangular strip.

Here is a .pdf

equilateral triangles-a

Essentially the method is:

You take the three measurements in sequence (1,2,3) rotating the strips in your micrometer clockwise starting with the enamel side. From this you establish which is the largest , second largest and smallest dimension.

This gives you a sequence  (eg. 1,3,2 or 3,1,2 etc.)

You then place the strip in the form and cant the plane relative to the enamel side as shown.

equilateral triangles

A brace of mortise grip rods

July 14, 2012

Just finished this matching pair of mortise grip 7ft6 4wt’s. (Still need to iron the rodbags :))

some other recent rods

November 20, 2011

Claret wraps

8ft6 6wt with fighting butt

7ft6 3wt

7ft6 2/3 wt

5ft 3wt 3 piece pack rod made for myself

The 'wisp'. 7ft 000wt bamboo rod

Recent rods – Nov 2011

November 20, 2011
These are 2 recent rods. The one with green wraps and the dark panga-panga reelseat is a fairly quick and crisp 2 wt dry fly rod. The other one with the laminated bamboo reelseat and the honey and brown wraps to match is a smooth and fuller action 7 ft 3wt. Both are 3 piece rods 7’6″ 2wt and 7′ 3wt – panga panga and bamboo reelseats


7'6" 2wt and 7' 3wt

another view

green wraps and what I call 'busy bee' wraps to match reelseat

from above

Laminated bamboo reelseat with first attempt at engraving on butt cap

some useful rodmaking lathe gadgets

November 3, 2011

Libellulidae dragonfly nymph fly pattern 1

September 20, 2011

Libellulidae dragonfly nymphs are frequently found in stillwaters. These nymphs differ from the Aeshnidae nymphs in that they are wide and flat rather than cylindrical in cross section. They tend to be sandy/tan coloured nymphs with lighter bellies and darker backs.They are often a lot smaller than the Aeshnidae.


Size 10 -14 nymph hook (The hook used here is a Grip 11801BL #10)

Thread  – tan 8/0

Tail – brown goose biots or marabou

Body – Chenille set with UV Knotsense covered in tan/sandy/yellow SLF (or similar) dubbing

Ribbing – copper wire

Legs – tan/brown soft hackle (partridge/pheasant etc.)

Eyes – burn nylon

Head – dubbing as per body

Libellulidae dragonfly nymph showing typical wide flat body and sandy colouring

Completed fly top view showing wide body. (The ribbing could be more evenly spaced but this does not worry me too much. I tend to tie many of my flies in a casual ‘rough and ready’ way as I think they end up being more ‘buggy’)

Completed fly side view showing slim profile and clear hook gape

Completed fly bottom view showing wide body. 

Step 1 – Lay a thread (tan coloured thread) body and tie in 2 goose biots (or brown marabou) for tail and a strand of copper wire

Step 2 -Burn nylon eyes and tie in 2 or 3mm back from eye of hook

Step  2- Nylon eyes top view. Tie in eyes with figure of eight turns

Step 3 -Tie in a strand of thin chenille behind the eyes, loop around rear of fly and return. This forms the wide flat body for the fly. The colour of the chenille is not critical because it will be covered with dubbing  in this version of the fly.

Step 3 -Chenille tied in – side view. Fly profile kept slim

Step 4- Squeeze a bead of Loon UV Knotsense onto the chenille. (You could use a fast setting epoxy if you are willing to wait a few minutes whilst it cures)

Step 5 – Set the UV Knotsense with UV light – this is an inexpensive UV keyring light. Repeat the UV Knotsense application on the underside of the fly to bond the chenille to the hook

Step 6 – Spin a dubbing noodle of tan/yellow/sandy coloured dubbing

Step 7- wrap dubbing over chenille to behind the eyes

Step 7- top view

Step 8 – Gently wind copper in even turns to behind the eyes being careful not to compress the sides of the body. Use the wire to form a waist behind the eyes

Step 8 -top view showing a ‘waist’ formed behind the eyes

Step 9 – strip and trim a soft hackle feather for the legs as shown

Step 9 – Tie in the tip of the feather to the underside of the hook at the waist behind the eyes

Step 10- Fold the soft hackle feather forward and tie in, in front of the eyes (You can simply wind a turn or two of hackle instead and massage the fibres into place when forming the head – you ideally want them on the sides and pointing slightly down)

Step 11- Spin another dubbing noodle and form the head with figure of 8 turns over eyes

Step 12 – Form thread head and whip finish. Varnish thread.

Step 13 – Dab top with brown coloured marker and you are done.

Recent 7’6″ 2/3wt bamboo rod

December 17, 2010